Category Archives: Costume Studio

Measuring Yourself for Costume Construction

Since Covid has made close interpersonal time with people who are not members of one’s own household a problem, coming in to the costume studio just for measurements, or asking a friend to come over to do measurements, are potentially a hazard.

While some brief interpersonal time may be unavoidably needed for a costume fitting, for the duration of the current plague we want to make this sort of thing as minimal as possible.

One of the ways performers can help is by learning to take accurate measurements of oneself at home.

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What type of adhesives to use

This is a comparison to many adhesives to see what works best for your project.

PVA glue/ craft glue/ wood glue

“Polyvinyl acetate” “white glue”

The only difference between white glue and wood glue is that wood glue is yellow and dries harder

You can make homemade PVA glue 

Water-soluble, non-acidic

Works on plastic, paper, fabric, styrofoam, organic materials, cardboard

Pros: does not emit strong fumes, non-toxic, dries clear without stains and flexible, cheap, easy to apply, odorless

Cons: can take 24 hours for curing, takes at least 30 mins for clamping, limited shelf life

$8-20 depending on size and brand

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Costumer’s Quotes

“Costumers make clothes for imaginary people” -Celestine Ranney

“Make it pretty and make it work” – Bob Blackman

“Done is good. Done is beautiful” – Pat Lusk

“If you’re going to steal, steal the best” – ?

“It’s probably under something.” Sign in the Living History Center (Northern California Renaissance Fair 1980s) Costume shop.

“It’s a’ learning’ experience” – Mrs. Elzey my H.S. sewing teacher after any disastrous sewing foul up.

“Hot glue is good for you: It whitens your teeth and improves your sex life” – Pat Lusk

…“…If you have a sex life” – Lorraine Pettit

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Salary and Respect Issues in Costuming

This page contains my opinions that I posted many years ago to a thread on The Costumer’s Manifesto eGroup  about salary and respect issues for costumers. To see other posts by people on this thread, go to the eGroup:

No one seems to have mentioned the key to the low salaries for costumers and other stitchers: It is “Women’s Work”.

The bottom paid job in every country in the world is that of seamstress, and as costuming relates closely to stitching, and is done by a workforce that is 95% female, it is often paid in a similar fashion.

You can look in theatre departments across the US and you will also find that the costume designer is usually the lowest paid faculty, and in many cases is lower paid “staff” when all other positions are tenured faculty. It is rather unusual for the costume designer to feel she is taken as seriously as an artist by directors or other designers. It isn’t unheard of for a costume designer to be rated as an equal, and I’m happy to say UAF is one place where we (the theatre faculty) all agree this is the proper way to do things, but even at UAF, once the level goes up a rung to administration, it isn’t necessarily the case. I’m the only faculty in Theatre with a Ph.D., and yet I’m still lowest paid of those who came in when I did, because our former dean set our incoming salaries when we were hired. Magically, a female costumer was “worth” substantially less than either male stage director, a salary differential that widened as time wore on.

There are lots of things costumers do, even in faculty positions that encourage colleagues to think less of their design skills however. Some things to remember if you want more respect:

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Costume Shop Space, People, Food and Safety

Note: since I wrote this in the Mid 1990s I peeled off most safety issues to Costume Crafts At 50o Below: The Fairbanks Non-Toxic Crafts Cookbook

I also have, since writing this, switched from referring to my work space as a “Costume Shop” to a “Costume Studio”. For more on this topic, see Naming the Workspace: Costume Shop vs Costume Studio

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Naming the Workspace: Costume Shop vs Costume Studio

Many Costume construction work rooms, especially in Theatre Departments in US Colleges and Universities, are referred to as the “Costume Shop”, while others are called a “Costume Studio”. Essentially, they mean the same thing to the workers, the choice is largely made one way or the other because of perceived values associated with the two names, and efforts by the managers/namers of these spaces to get equal status and worker pay with the Scene Shop in the same building, or equal status, funding and worker pay with other artistic departments in a college. (Side note: Interestingly, unlike most other American theatre terminology these two choices are not based on English models, as in the UK these spaces are most often referred to as “Costume Workrooms”).

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The Old c. 1995 Costumer’s Manifesto “Book” that started before I thought to start putting this stuff on the internet in 1996….

A Book of General Advice for Costumers

 By Tara Maginnis Ph.D. The first “self-help” manual for those artists who make clothes for imaginary people.

Continue reading The Old c. 1995 Costumer’s Manifesto “Book” that started before I thought to start putting this stuff on the internet in 1996….