Category Archives: Costume History

To Pastiche or not to pastiche?: The Peacham Drawing and the Conundrum of Costuming Shakespeare

Shakespeare would be shocked if were able to see the artistic liberties taken with modern stagings of his plays, say the pearl-clutching traditionalists. Would he even recognize his own work filtered through four centuries of bastardization? Would he despair at the state of what passes for entertainment? I actually rather imagine he would–why is the audience so passive?, he may wonder. How come they’re only laughing at the really obvious sex jokes? And are those women onstage? Cultural norm shifts aside, the postmodern “bastardization” of Shakespeare’s and his contemporaries’ plays may be more comfortable and familiar to him than one would expect. When directors–usually film directors–set out to recreate the original stagings of Shakespeare’s plays, their design decisions are informed more or less by historical fact. We know what Elizabethan theatres looked like, and that sets were sparse if they existed at all. We also know that the costumes reflected the fashions of the day…or do we? After all, we only know of a single contemporary image that depicts said costumes. Is it accurate? Maybe, maybe not–but it’s all we have.

Staging of the “lost play” Love’s Labour’s Won from Doctor Who “The Shakespeare Code”, broadcast 2007
Continue reading To Pastiche or not to pastiche?: The Peacham Drawing and the Conundrum of Costuming Shakespeare

Should Knickerbockers be Brought Back?

Knickerbockers are a form of men’s or boys’ baggy knee-length trousers that were popular in the early 20th-century United States. Golfers’ plus-twos and plus-fours are the breeches that were also fastened below the knees but weren’t baggy. Before World War II, skiers often wore knickerbockers too, usually ankle-length.” [1] These types of trousers were often common in the early periods of the 20th century among golfers and youngsters (mostly newsies), especially in Europe. Around the 1980s, although it was amongst the “preppy” fashions, it started to die down. The question remains though is, should we bring back knickerbockers?

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Links To Pages on Histories of Garters

Garters are these little bands that people wore on their legs. And indeed, the very purpose of a garter was to keep hold of long stockings at the stocking’s exact length of up to where it stops at the wearer’s leg.

Around the 18th century, most men wore these garters to keep the long white stockings they wore underneath their pants to keep the stockings at the designated height, above their knees, while the breeches they wore above that part of their legs went down to below their knees, fastened with buttons.

A leather garter on a man’s stocking just underneath his breech on one of his legs.

Below this photograph is a list of pages to explain the history of garters.

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Theory: Are Fashion Comebacks From Older Generations Uncommon?

In the 1980s, we have seen fashions from the early twentieth century make a comeback, and in a way, combining into one for the particular decade, the 1980s. As we know, there comes a time when people start fashion trends in a decade. But the difference is between a trend and a comeback. A trend is when something in fashion to be exact is so popular in a period of time. A comeback is when something is rather old in this category, and brought back from an older decade, and gains popularity, it’s considered a comeback. The question that remains here in this matter is, are fashion comebacks from older generations uncommon?

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Picture sources for People of Color in Western Costume History (for Teachers of History of Costume)

The first internationally accepted American actor: Ira Aldridge.

Websites:

Related Pages:

Fedora Hats

Fedora hats, simply known as fedoras, are general hats that have been usually worn by men since its inception in the late 1800s.

Note: Fedoras are not to be mistaken for Trilby hats and Porkpie hats for their similar looks and often confusion throughout the older times hat fan community!

Fedoras have soft brims and intended crowns. They are derived supposedly from bowler hats and the name “Fedora” was used for this hat as early as 1891.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedora
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Comments About Vintage Fashion and Fashion Revivals

This was an answer I made to a letter sent to me back in the 1990s when the Costumer’s Manifesto site was new, Here is the original Question: Dear Professor Maginnis, I’m trying to determine why people have embraced “retro” style right now and whether it’s a manifestation of a larger trend or perception. I’m trying to go beyond Faith Popcorn’s analysis that we are embracing anything to do with nostalgia because we are ambivalent about the political uncertainty and technological innovations in our world. Can you suggest some books or articles that address this topic?

I think that Popcorn is essentially correct, that the overwhelming dependency on fashion revivals that seemed to kick in during the 1980’s, and which we haven’t lost since, is a reflection of the backlash against change that began around that time, but I would agree with you that it is far more than that.

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1907 Cluett, Peabody & Co., Arrow, “Avolyn” linen fold collar for men

And to show off the first of the “A” name Arrow collars from my eBay early 20th Century collar bag purchase, here is the Avolyn Collar, which is narrower than the Amolek and Ancover, with a wide spread:

Arrow Avolyn Collar

The Arrow Avolyn is an easy to date collar, because it was not only heavily advertised in its first year by Cluett, Peabody & Co. (as their new collars were), but was widely reported to have been worn by the most famous man in America at the time of its launch. The style is a bit “retro” for 1907, looking almost like a throwback to earlier decades, but this style never really stopped as it was one that was more comfortable by being narrower and having a wide spread, especially for any older man with a thick neck. As a result this type of collar style never went completely “out” of use like more trendy styles.

Continue reading 1907 Cluett, Peabody & Co., Arrow, “Avolyn” linen fold collar for men

1922 Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc., Ide Brand, “Idewyn” linen detachable fold collar for men, with roll on the front part of the fold.

This starched collar is in a style so basic it might be from anywhere from 1890-1935, but it includes an interesting starching feature and unusual “Idewyn” name from which it was possible to “date” it more narrowly: The collar includes a stamp with a laundry directions to “IRON FRONT WITH ROLL” which following makes for an unusual top view.

Continue reading 1922 Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc., Ide Brand, “Idewyn” linen detachable fold collar for men, with roll on the front part of the fold.