General Information:
- Makeup | performing arts
- The History of 1950s Makeup
- Stagecraft – Theatrical makeup
- Pinterest: The Costumer: Theatrical Makeup History
- Cosmetics & Skin:
- Theatrical Cosmetics: Making Face, Making “Race”
- Russian Bibliography of Early Stage Makeup Books 1872-1933 (Mostly Russian, but other countries as well)
- Wikipedia; Gas Lighting: Theatrical Lighting
- Vintage Powder Room (primarily street makeup info and packaging from 1900-1950s)
Physiognomy:
Physiognomy is a Psudo-science that was “studied” by 19th and Early 20th century actors and makeup artists to improve their study of faces. Unfortunately, the mid 19th & early 20th Century books on this fake “science” in these eras existed primarily to promote racist, sexist, and xenophobic views which trickled into the designs of stage makeup. Racists worldwide continue to cite this nonsense to “prove” superiority to groups and individuals they hate.
- Student’s course in characterology: an exact science in fifteen lessons by Leander Hamilton McCormick
- 1833-1920 An original and illustrated physiological and physiognomical chart by Joseph Simms
- 1820-1875 Wells’ new descriptive chart, for the use of examiners, giving a delineation of the character by Samuel Robert Wells
- Phrenology and “Scientific Racism” in the 19th Century
- 1793 Essays on Physiognomy; for the promotion of the knowledge and the love of mankind by Johann Caspar Lavater
- 1866 Comparative Physiognomy : or, Resemblances Between Men and Animals by James W. Redfield
- 1867 New Physiognomy: or, Signs of Character by Samuel Wells
- 1873 An original and illustrated physiological and physiognomical chart by Joseph Simms
- 1905 Physiognomy : how to read character in the face and to determine the capacity for love, business, or crime by Leila Holt Lomax
Blackface and racism in the performing arts:
Theatre has a deeply rooted problem of racism, from minstrel shows, to the misleading theatrical depiction of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, to the disproportionate amount of primarily white Broadway shows.
In the early 19th century, Minstrel shows were an extremely common form of entertainment. They were performed by white actors in blackface, and were unfortunately the main kind of representation black characters had in theatre, solely being used to mock them and enforce racist stereotypes. Though Minstrel shows have largely been erased from theatre programs around the world, many people still fail to understand the extremely negative implications of blackface.
There was a point where all theatre actors, and nearly all characters were white. Because of this, greasepaint–a grease-based theatrical base makeup that was invented by Wagnerian Opera singer Ludwig Leichner in the 1860s and gained international popularity in the 1870s–came in primarily caucasian tints, and very few darker tints. The darker tints were often simply named after the race/ethnicity which they would be used to portray.
- Why Cultural Appropriation Is Wrong
- Representation of Black Culture in Arts and Media
- Four Black Artists on How Racism Corrodes the Theater World – The New York Times
- Why On-Screen Representation Actually Matters
- Brownface. Blackface. They’re all offensive. And here’s why – CNN
- How Beauty Brands Are Profiting Off Racism
- Found: 10 of the Most Shade-Inclusive Foundation Lines
- What Backstage Beauty Prep is Really Like for Models of Color in 2017
- “Beauty doesn’t just come in shade pale”: why is representation still a problem in the beauty industry?
- When Diversity Should Mean More Than Just Representation
- Casual Racism in the Beauty Industry
Historical makeup kits:
- Miner’s Foto-Chrome Makeup Kit for Colored Film
- Miner’s Makeup Kit
- Assorted Vintage Makeup Kit
- Stein’s Crepe Hair Kit
- Stein’s Assorted Grease Paints Tin
- Assorted Vintage Makeup Products
- Stein’s Makeup Kit
- Max Factor Female Stage Makeup Kit For Students
- Stein’s Makeup Color Chart
- Picking for Pleasure: Understanding Antiquing Acquisitions: It Still Smells like Crayon: On Purchasing a Circa 1890 Makeup Box
- Bayshore’s Stage Make-Up Kit
- Stein’s Makeup and Hair/Beard Kit
- Big 1900s Stage Makeup kit
- Stein’s Midget Make-Up Kit
17th & 18th Century Theatrical Makeup
- Theatrical Colours: Cosmetics, Rhetoric and Theatre in Webster’s The White Devil
- La Commedia dell’Arte:
- Leichner-Album; 150 Characterköpfe für die Bühne.
1820s Theatrical Makeup
1830s Theatrical Makeup
1850s Theatrical Makeup
1860s Theatrical Makeup
1870s Theatrical Makeup
- 1871 The Amateur’s Hand-book and Guide to Home or Drawing Room Theatricals by Thomas Hailes Lacy
- 1875 A Practical Guide to Private Theatricals… by An Old Stager (Charles Milward?)
- 1876 Burton’s Amateur Actor, a Complete Guide to Private Theatricals by C. E. Burton
- 1877 How To Make-Up; A Practical Guide for Amateurs &c by Haresfoot & Rouge (See a demo on how to do the “Death” makeup featured in the guidebook here!
- 1879 Acting and Oratory: Designed for Public Speakers, Teachers, Actors, Etc by Joseph Edwin Frobisher (see pgs. 392-393 describing makeup)
1880s Theatrical Makeup
- 1880 De Witt’s How To Manage Amateur Theatricals
- 1880 Amateur Acting by J. Keith Angus
- 1880 Dazian’s Catalog of Theatrical Goods, Costumer’s Supplies, Regalia, Church & Military Trimmings, Society Goods, Etc. W. Dazian
- 1881 Amateur Acting by J. Keith Angus
- 1881 Private Theatricals, Being a Practical Guide for the Home Stage, by An Old Stager, with pictorial suggestions for scenes, after designs by Shirley Hodson. by Orville Augustus Roorbach
- 1882 The Actor’s Art by Gustave Garcia
- 1882 Frobisher’s make-up book. A complete guide on the art of making-up the face for the stage. Including directions for the use of wigs, beards, mustaches, and every variety of artificial hair, etc. by Frobisher, J. E. (Joseph Edwin)
- 1882 Theatricals and Tableaux Vivants by Charles Harrison
- 1888 Helmer’s Actor’s Make Up Book by N. Helmer
- 1888 The Art of Making-up for Public and Private Theatricals by Charles Henry Fox
1890s Theatrical Makeup
- 1890 Theatricals; Or the Art Of Making Up by C.H. Fox (Photos and drawings of actors in wigs by C.H. Fox with notes on makeup application)
- 1890 Amateur Theatricals; A Practical Guide for Amateur Actors by Charles F. Townsend
- 1891 Private Theatricals by Charles F. Townsend
- 1891 Ludwig Leichner German Exhibition in London Pamphlet
- 1892 A Few Practical Hints on “Making Up” By Adolph Rothe
- C. Late 19th Century How To Make Up: A Guide To The Stage By Old Pro
- 1892 Die maske des schauspielers praktische anleitung in der kunst sich zu schminken by Friedrich Altmann
- 1895 The Peterson Magazine v. 106 p. 731-742. The Actor and His Makeup
- 1898 Hageman’s Makeup Book by Maurice Hageman
- 1899 Wehman’s Makeup Book, or, Guide to the Stage, by Charles F. Townsend
- 1899 How to Get on the Stage, and How to Succeed There by Leopold Wagner
1900s Theatrical Makeup
- 1900 Dick’s Makeup Book by H.B. Dick & Fitzgerald
- 1900 The Actor’s Manual and Handbook : Containing Useful Information for Amateurs and Professionals by Chicago Manuscript Co.
- c. 1900 The Makeup Book for Professionals, F. W. Nack
- 1901 The Art of Make-Up by Edith Davids
- 1901 How to “Make-Up” a Practical Guide for Amateurs and Beginners by S. J. Adair Fitz-Gerald
- 1903 Leichner-Album; 150 Characterköpfe für die Bühne
- 1903 Jacques Buck’s Buhnenkopf (1919 reprint) with handwritten notes in English & Finnish
- 1904 A Guide to the Stage by Austin Fryers
- 1904 Amateur Theatricals, A Practical Guide by C. Lang Neil
- 1905 Making Up, A Practical and Exhaustive Treatise on This Art, by James Young
- C. 1905 Wm. Hepner Wig Co. Theatrical and Street Wig Makers Catalog
- 1909 The Art of Theatrical Makeup by Cavendish Morton
- A SIDE NOTE: I designed makeup for the DVC production of The Mystery of Edwin Drood using the highligted books above, and the actors did their best to follow my designs. SEE THEM HERE!
1910s Theatrical Makeup
- 1910 Das Schminken in Theorie und Praxis (Makeup in Theory and Practice) Berlin
- 1910 Das Schminken (as above at HathiTrust)
- 1910 L’art de se maquiller & de se grimer par Adelphy Brachart
- 1914 L’art de se grimer 3rd ed. by Adolphe Brachart
- 1914 The Spatula v. 21 p. 597, Drug Store Theatrical Goods
- 1914-1916 G. Klippert Manufacturer of Theatrical Hair Wigs Catalog
- 1915 Illustrated catalogue of papier mache, linen, wax, wire, gauze, show and curtain masks, noses, wigs, beards, etc by American Mask Manufacturing Company
- 1918 The Midland Druggist and Pharmaceutical Review, v. 52, n.1, p. 262-263 Theatrical Make-up — An Excellent Side Line
- c.1919 How To Make-Up Published by the M. Stein Cosmetic Co, New York
- 1903 Jacques Buck’s Buhnenkopf (1919 reprint) with handwritten notes in English & Finnish
- 1918 Kumadori Secrets of the Ichikawa Family (Kabuki Makeup)
- 1919 Denison’s Makeup Guide For Amateurs and Professionals
- 1919 Das Schminken by Zimmermann
- Silent-ology: Silent Film Makeup: What Was It Really Like?
- Cosmetics and Skin: Early Movie Makeup
1920s Theatrical Makeup
- c.1920 Zauder Bros. Catalog of Theatrical Society and Boudoir Hair Goods
- 1921 The Singer and His Art by Thaddeus Wronski
- 1921 An Illustrated Catalog of Theatrical Wigs, Together with a Few Hints on Makeup, A. Rothe, Boston
- 1925 The Art of Make-up, For the Stage, Screen and Social use, by Helena Chalmers, Illustrated by the Author
- 1926 Denison’s Makeup Guide for Amateur and Professional
- 1927 The Art of Make-up, for the Stage, the Screen, and Social use, by Helena Chalmers illustrated by the author (2nd Edition)
- Makeup in Early Hollywood by Lani Barry (History of Makeup Final Paper 2011)
- 1928 Waas & Son Illustrated Catalogue of Theatrical Supplies
- 1929 Funk Wig Co. Catalog
1930s Theatrical Makeup
- 1930 L’Art De Grimer by CH. Schaller
- 1930s Pamphlets: Max Factor’s Hints on the Art Of Makeup
- 1930 Хрестоматия актера. Мимика. Грим. Движение. Речь. (The Actor’s Reader: Mimicry. Makeup. Motion. Speech.)
- 1936 Paint, Powder and Makeup; The Art of Theatre Makeup From the Amateur and Classroom Viewpoint by Ivard Strauss
- 1938 The Last Word in Make-up (Makeup Encyclopedia) by Dr. Rudolph G. Liszt
1940s Theatrical Makeup
- Practical Guide to Makeup, Moscow, 1940
- C. 1940 Tom Mix Comic Advertisement and “Disguise” Kit
- 1940 Stage Make-Up for Amateurs Published by The Chicago Park District
- 1940 A Practical Guide to Makeup, by N.M. Novlyanisky, Moscow/Leningrad Izkustva (Art) Press
1950s Theatrical Makeup